汉服

Synopsis

Overview

Hanfu, fully known as "Han Nationality Traditional Clothing," also referred to as Han attire, Han clothing, or Huafu, is the traditional ethnic clothing system of the Han people, inherited for over four thousand years. It does not refer to the clothing of a single dynasty, but rather to the attire worn by the Han people from the time of the Yellow Emperor's ascension to the throne until the late Ming and early Qing dynasties (approximately from the 21st century BC to the mid-17th century AD).

Overview

Hanfu, fully known as "Han Nationality Traditional Attire," also called Hanyiguan, Hanzhuang, or Huafu, is the traditional ethnic clothing system of the Han people, inherited for over four thousand years. It does not refer to the clothing of a single dynasty, but rather to the traditional clothing and accessory system with unique Han ethnic characteristics, distinctly different from other ethnic groups. This system formed through natural evolution, centered around Huaxia ritual culture, in the main Han residential areas from the time of the Yellow Emperor's accession to the late Ming and early Qing dynasties (approximately from the 21st century BC to the mid-17th century AD). In recent years, the Hanfu revival movement has emerged among China's younger generation, becoming a cultural phenomenon connecting tradition and modernity.

History

Hanfu has a long and rich history, its origins traceable to the beginning of Huaxia civilization. According to ancient texts and archaeological discoveries, the basic forms of Hanfu were initially established during the Shang and Zhou periods, with its core features—the crossed collar and right lapel (jiaoling youren), and the upper garment with lower skirt (shangyi xiachang)—already taking shape. During the Qin and Han dynasties, the clothing system was further refined, with the Shenyi (a garment connecting the upper and lower parts) becoming mainstream, establishing the basic silhouette of Hanfu. The Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties period saw clothing styles become more elegant and free-spirited, with richer varieties influenced by multiculturalism. During the prosperous Sui and Tang dynasties, attire was majestic, luxurious, open, and inclusive, with Ruqun for women and round-collar robes for men being highly representative. The Song and Ming dynasties saw a return to a reserved, elegant, rigorous, and restrained style, with garments like the Beizi and Daopao becoming popular, and a strict clothing ritual system was formed. In the early Qing dynasty, the rulers implemented the "Queue Order" and "Change of Attire" policy, leading to the disruption of the Hanfu system in mainstream society, although it was preserved in some specific occasions and among certain groups. In the early 21st century, with the enhancement of China's national strength and cultural confidence, Hanfu re-entered the public eye as an important carrier of traditional culture.

Main Characteristics

The Hanfu system is vast with numerous styles, but shares some common core characteristics:

1. Structural Features: Mainly divided into the "Upper Garment with Lower Skirt" system (e.g., Mianfu) and the "Shenyi" system (where the upper and lower garments are sewn together). There is also the "Ruqun" system, among others. Its basic structure includes ten parts: collar (ling), front closure (jin), lapel (ren), overlapping front panels (jin), hem (ju), sleeve (xiu), sash (dai), and knee covering (fu).
2. Crossed Collar and Right Lapel (Jiaoling Youren): The collar is directly connected to the front closure, which crosses over the chest, with the left lapel overlapping the right, forming a "y"-shaped appearance. This is the most typical external feature of Hanfu and an important marker distinguishing it from other ethnic attire.
3. Broad Robes and Large Sleeves: Hanfu sleeve styles are diverse, but the mainstream style is broad and rounded, symbolizing the round heaven and square earth, embodying a majestic demeanor. There are also styles like arrow sleeves and straight sleeves.
4. Sashes and Hidden Fasteners: Hanfu mostly does not use buttons. Instead, thin ribbons are sewn onto the front closure and tied in pairs to secure the garment. This is both practical and adds to the flowing beauty.
5. Patterns and Accessories: Hanfu patterns (such as the Twelve Ornaments, cloud patterns, floral and plant patterns) and accessories (like jade pendants, sachets, and ribbon decorations) are rich in cultural symbolism, reflecting the spiritual connotation of "clothing and headwear carrying the Way."

The table below summarizes the main forms and characteristics of Hanfu in different historical periods:

Cultural Significance

Hanfu is not merely clothing but an important carrier of Chinese civilization. It profoundly embodies traditional Chinese philosophical concepts, such as the worldview of "harmony between man and nature" and "rules and squareness," and the aesthetic view of "elegance and substance." The very form of the "crossed collar and right lapel" contains the ritual culture of "respecting the right" and ethnic identity. In ancient times, the clothing system was an important component of "rule by rites," used to clarify hierarchy, distinguish social status, and differentiate rituals.

In modern society, the Hanfu revival movement holds multiple cultural significances. Firstly, it is a visual expression of ethnic cultural identity, helping to enhance ethnic cohesion and cultural confidence. Secondly, it promotes exploration and learning of traditional rituals, history, literature, and craftsmanship among the public, especially young people. Finally, the integration of Hanfu with contemporary life has given rise to new cultural industries and aesthetic trends, becoming a vivid case of the creative transformation and innovative development of traditional culture.

References

1. Shen Congwen, Research on Ancient Chinese Clothing, The Commercial Press, 2011. Relevant academic viewpoints can be referenced in the introduction by the National Museum of China: https://www.chnmuseum.cn/zp/zpml/201909/t20190916_170885.shtml
2. Sun Ji, Huaxia Attire: Ancient Chinese Clothing Culture, Shanghai Ancient Books Publishing House, 2016. Related content can be seen in the Palace Museum article: https://www.dpm.org.cn/classify_detail/246177.html
3. China National Silk Museum, online resources related to Hanfu form research: https://www.chinasilkmuseum.com/education/detail/14199
4. Xinhua Net, report on contemporary Hanfu cultural phenomena: http://www.xinhuanet.com/politics/2021-04/14/c_1127327903.htm