2 Papers by Dr Paula Wren
Used in specific ways, body scanning technology can provide greater understanding of the body and... more Used in specific ways, body scanning technology can provide greater understanding of the body and its relationship to clothing. However, body scanning is still a developing technology and little is known about the practical applications and limitations of its operation within the education environment. Further to this, whilst there have been many high profile body scanning surveys, there still appears to be little accessible information on the practical issues of body scanning or data derived from scanning. With reference to live industry and academic projects, and the application of this technology within a UK university, recommendations are provided in the following areas: supporting structures and methods to enable; long term research, short term; accruing of data that can be seen as comparable to that collected in other locations and by other teams. Importantly processes and data captured during scanner use have little standardisation and each operator is expected to develop their own structures for training, data collection, assessment, storage and application. This can be extremely difficult without accessible examples of structures and processes previously applied. The team operating this scanner have found a diverse number of uses and developed protocols for ethics and storage that ensure data collected can have long term relevance as a resource in the increasing global arena of big data and collaboration anticipated by existing funding sources. Fundamentally, recommendations are made regarding body scanner supplier interventions that would enable the easier application of this technology and ensure data is comparable and has the greatest value for each and all operators. It is hoped through the adoption and provision of resources to support consistent scanning and data storage the current data collected on a small scale by varied users can have the greatest opportunity for future use collaboratively across different user groups.
Industry fit practices and the issues that impact on good garment fit
Abstract
This research establishes the skills sets and processes of current industry practitione... more Abstract
This research establishes the skills sets and processes of current industry practitioners and the effect this has on the achievement of good garment fit. This is contrasted with established definitions of good garment fit, outlined in current literature, and provides evidence of areas which should be addressed through training.
A methodological strategy was developed to collect and analyse data from clothing professionals currently working within the clothing industry. A convenience sample of individuals working within various garment development roles for a variety of market levels were selected. Semi structured interviews were employed to gather data on industry processes and protocols. A fit evaluation tool was developed synthesising Fastfit, a tool that allows practitioners to view moving 360° pictures of garments, and literature definitions of good garment fit. This tool enabled the collection of observational data on practitioners’ skill sets. Both methods were used in the same instance.
The paper established that although subjects worked at different market levels, their processes were similar and often individual practices within or perceptions of the process impacted directly on the garment fit. Skill set levels also varied within the sample set even between individuals who performed similar roles, which resulted in a variation of knowledge regarding suitable fit. Results indicated that problems with garment fit are cumulative, with issues involving practitioner skills levels and bad practice impacting on garment fit.
It was identified that current academic research, centred on utilising technology for the improvement of garment fit, proffered solutions which were unfamiliar to practitioners, in terms of their skill sets and geared towards technologies not available within their workplaces. This study found that there has been little research focused on the practitioners themselves, their practices, the skills sets they are equipped with and the structures in which they operate.
This paper identifies current industry practices and skills sets to inform academic researchers and educational professionals who utilise technology for the improvement of garment fit. This paper further recommends that the skill set of practitioners be considered when providing academically derived solutions to facilitate ready implementation by the industry. This would also allow the development of a curriculum compatible with the needs of industry but which is able to integrate new ideas, practices and technologies in harmony with existing human resources and practices.
Conference Presentations by Dr Paula Wren
The True Height of the Waist: Explorations of automated body scanner waist definitions of the TC2 scanner
The waist is considered as an important measurement point for clothing and represents part of a c... more The waist is considered as an important measurement point for clothing and represents part of a control section from which lower body garments hang and garments are often required to fit. However, unlike many measurement sites on the body the waist has no single landmark from which to reference it for a population. The non-contact nature of body scanning further complicates this, though automated measurement systems connected to body scanning have developed methods to determine the waist relative to surface geometry. Whilst body scanning provides an opportunity to analyse large volumes of data, there is limited knowledge of how differences in waist definitions using automated systems of measurement compare to waist placement with reference to accepted upper and lower limits. This work employed content analysis methods to understand existing clothing waist definitions and developed different waist definitions within automated measurement software of a TC2 scanner. Measurement extraction using this explorative set of definitions was undertaken on a sample of 106 females whose upper and lower waist limits had been determined through measurement. The data was then analysed to establish how the definitions compared to the waist height determined as the midpoint between the upper (lowest palpable rib) and lower (highest point of the right iliac crest) limits. It was possible to establish that proportional relationships between lengths that could help in defining waist placement and provide checks in automated extraction. As a result of this study a number of suitable waist definitions are proposed for use in the automated measurement software of body scanning technology.
Papers by Dr Paula Wren
Consumers' interaction with online fashion retailers' body measurement guidance
Journal of fashion marketing and management, May 21, 2024
Methods are necessary to ensure scan data is suitable for the application of pattern construction... more Methods are necessary to ensure scan data is suitable for the application of pattern construction, this study provides clear approaches that allow this. viii Table of Contents QUOTE .
1.1 Purpose This research establishes the skills sets and processes of current industry practitio... more 1.1 Purpose This research establishes the skills sets and processes of current industry practitioners and the effect this has on the achievement of good garment fit. This is contrasted with established definitions of good garment fit, outlined in current literature, and provides evidence of areas which should be addressed through training. 1.2 Methodology A methodological strategy was developed to collect and analyse data from clothing professionals currently working within the clothing industry. A convenience sample of individuals working within various garment development roles for a variety of market levels were selected. Semi structured interviews were employed to gather data on industry processes and protocols. A fit evaluation tool was developed synthesising Fastfit, a tool that allows practitioners to view moving 360° pictures of garments, and literature definitions of good garment fit. This tool enabled the collection of observational data on practitioners’ skill sets. Both ...
Proceedings of the 5th International Conference on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 21-22 October 2014, 2014
The waist is considered as an important measurement point for clothing and represents part of a c... more The waist is considered as an important measurement point for clothing and represents part of a control section from which lower body garments hang and garments are often required to fit. However, unlike many measurement sites on the body the waist has no single landmark from which to reference it for a population. The non-contact nature of body scanning further complicates this, though automated measurement systems connected to body scanning have developed methods to determine the waist relative to surface geometry. Whilst body scanning provides an opportunity to analyse large volumes of data, there is limited knowledge of how differences in waist definitions using automated systems of measurement compare to waist placement with reference to accepted upper and lower limits. This work employed content analysis methods to understand existing clothing waist definitions and developed different waist definitions within automated measurement software of a TC2 scanner. Measurement extraction using this explorative set of definitions was undertaken on a sample of 106 females whose upper and lower waist limits had been determined through measurement. The data was then analysed to establish how the definitions compared to the waist height determined as the midpoint between the upper (lowest palpable rib) and lower (highest point of the right iliac crest) limits. It was possible to establish that proportional relationships between lengths that could help in defining waist placement and provide checks in automated extraction. As a result of this study a number of suitable waist definitions are proposed for use in the automated measurement software of body scanning technology.
Creating visual means to map and communicate sizing practice and theory
Body Mass Index and Body Satisfaction: Does Availability of Well-Fitting Clothes Matter?
Clothing and Textiles Research Journal
Relatively little is known about the factors that mediate the relationship between high body mass... more Relatively little is known about the factors that mediate the relationship between high body mass index (BMI) and reduced body satisfaction. This is the first study to investigate whether availability of well-fitting clothes mediates this relationship. Eighty-five women with an age range of 18–81 years were 3D body scanned and weighed and measured at Time 1, and number of retailers stocking their sizes (determined through body scans) was calculated. At Time 2, they completed an online body satisfaction measure. Body satisfaction at Time 2 was predicted by both BMI and availability of well-fitting clothes in UK retailers at Time 1, with the two factors explaining 27% of the variance in body satisfaction. Availability of clothes size partially mediated the relationship between BMI and body satisfaction. Results suggest that the clothing retail sector might contribute to reducing body dissatisfaction by providing a wider range of choices for all sizes of consumer.
Practical Considerations of Applying Body Scanning as a Teaching and Research Tool
Proceedings of the 5th International Conference on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 21-22 October 2014, 2014
The True Height of the Waist: Explorations of Automated Body Scanner Waist Definitions of the TC2 scanner
Proceedings of the 5th International Conference on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 21-22 October 2014, 2014
The waist is considered as an important measurement point for clothing and represents part of a c... more The waist is considered as an important measurement point for clothing and represents part of a control section from which lower body garments hang and garments are often required to fit. However, unlike many measurement sites on the body the waist has no single landmark from which to reference it for a population. The non-contact nature of body scanning further complicates this, though automated measurement systems connected to body scanning have developed methods to determine the waist relative to surface geometry. Whilst body scanning provides an opportunity to analyse large volumes of data, there is limited knowledge of how differences in waist definitions using automated systems of measurement compare to waist placement with reference to accepted upper and lower limits. This work employed content analysis methods to understand existing clothing waist definitions and developed different waist definitions within automated measurement software of a TC2 scanner. Measurement extraction using this explorative set of definitions was undertaken on a sample of 106 females whose upper and lower waist limits had been determined through measurement. The data was then analysed to establish how the definitions compared to the waist height determined as the midpoint between the upper (lowest palpable rib) and lower (highest point of the right iliac crest) limits. It was possible to establish that proportional relationships between lengths that could help in defining waist placement and provide checks in automated extraction. As a result of this study a number of suitable waist definitions are proposed for use in the automated measurement software of body scanning technology.
Establishing a Pre and Post-3D Bodyscanning Survey Process for Able-Bodied UK Women Aged 55 Years+ to Determine an Appropriate Waist Position for Garment Development
Proceedings of the 5th International Conference on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 21-22 October 2014, 2014
Practical Considerations of Applying Body Scanning as a Teaching and Research Tool
Proceedings of the 5th International Conference on 3D Body Scanning Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 21-22 October 2014, 2014
Uploads
2 Papers by Dr Paula Wren
This research establishes the skills sets and processes of current industry practitioners and the effect this has on the achievement of good garment fit. This is contrasted with established definitions of good garment fit, outlined in current literature, and provides evidence of areas which should be addressed through training.
A methodological strategy was developed to collect and analyse data from clothing professionals currently working within the clothing industry. A convenience sample of individuals working within various garment development roles for a variety of market levels were selected. Semi structured interviews were employed to gather data on industry processes and protocols. A fit evaluation tool was developed synthesising Fastfit, a tool that allows practitioners to view moving 360° pictures of garments, and literature definitions of good garment fit. This tool enabled the collection of observational data on practitioners’ skill sets. Both methods were used in the same instance.
The paper established that although subjects worked at different market levels, their processes were similar and often individual practices within or perceptions of the process impacted directly on the garment fit. Skill set levels also varied within the sample set even between individuals who performed similar roles, which resulted in a variation of knowledge regarding suitable fit. Results indicated that problems with garment fit are cumulative, with issues involving practitioner skills levels and bad practice impacting on garment fit.
It was identified that current academic research, centred on utilising technology for the improvement of garment fit, proffered solutions which were unfamiliar to practitioners, in terms of their skill sets and geared towards technologies not available within their workplaces. This study found that there has been little research focused on the practitioners themselves, their practices, the skills sets they are equipped with and the structures in which they operate.
This paper identifies current industry practices and skills sets to inform academic researchers and educational professionals who utilise technology for the improvement of garment fit. This paper further recommends that the skill set of practitioners be considered when providing academically derived solutions to facilitate ready implementation by the industry. This would also allow the development of a curriculum compatible with the needs of industry but which is able to integrate new ideas, practices and technologies in harmony with existing human resources and practices.
Conference Presentations by Dr Paula Wren
Papers by Dr Paula Wren