Overview
Jiangsu cuisine (江苏菜), commonly known as Su cuisine (苏菜), is one of China's Eight Great Culinary Traditions. Originating during the Southern and Northern Dynasties and Tang-Song periods in China, this regional cuisine is primarily associated with Jiangsu Province. Su cuisine is renowned for its meticulous preparation techniques, emphasis on fresh ingredients, and delicate presentation. It consists of three major local flavor branches: Huaiyang, Suzhou-Wuxi, and Xuhai cuisines, with Huaiyang cuisine serving as the dominant influence. Su cuisine is characterized by its light, fresh flavors with a slight sweetness, careful knife work, and cooking methods that preserve the natural taste of ingredients.
History
The historical development of Jiangsu cuisine is deeply intertwined with the region's prosperity and cultural development. According to Qing Lei Lei Chao (清稗类钞) compiled by Xu Ke of Hangzhou, "Among the famous cities with distinctive culinary traditions are Beijing, Shandong, Sichuan, Guangdong, Fujian, Jiangning (Nanjing), Suzhou, Zhenjiang, Yangzhou, and Huai'an." Half of these cities are located in Jiangsu Province.
The cuisine evolved significantly throughout Chinese history. During the Sui and Tang dynasties, exquisite dishes such as "golden jasper and jade slices" (金齑玉脍) from Songjiang, exquisite牡丹齑 from Suzhou, and finely sliced dishes from Yangzhou gained prominence. The prosperity of these cities, reflected in the saying "Yangzhou first, Yizhou (Sichuan) second" (扬一益二), promoted the advancement of culinary techniques in the region.
By the Five Dynasties period, the staple foods and pastries of Jiangsu were already celebrated as the "Seven Wonders of Jiankang" (健康七妙), highlighting the exceptional quality of rice, noodles, pancakes, wontons, and fried dough twists. During the Song Dynasty, significant changes occurred in the flavor preferences of Jiangsu cuisine as northern influences arrived with officials who moved south after the Song court relocated to Hangzhou. Islamic culinary traditions also began to influence Jiangsu cuisine during the Tang and Song periods, particularly the Jin and Yuan dynasties, enriching its variety and techniques.
Key Information
| Aspect | Description |
|---|---|
| Chinese Name | 江苏菜 (Jiāngsū cài) |
| Abbreviation | 苏菜 (Sū cài) |
| Origin Period | Southern and Northern Dynasties, Tang-Song periods |
| Origin Region | China (Jiangsu Province) |
| Classification | Regional Chinese cuisine |
| Notable Subtype | Jinling cuisine (金陵菜) |
| Main Cooking Methods | Stewing, braising, simmering, slow-cooking |
| Flavor Profile | Light, fresh, slightly sweet, emphasizes original flavors |
| Key Ingredients | Freshwater fish, crab, duck, seasonal vegetables |
Cultural Significance
Jiangsu cuisine holds a prominent position in Chinese culinary culture and has been influential in the development of other regional cuisines. It was one of the major culinary traditions popular throughout China during the Qing Dynasty, comparable to Sichuan and Cantonese cuisines in prestige. Notably, Huaiyang cuisine, a branch of Su cuisine, became established as court cuisine and continues to dominate state banquets in China today, earning it the nickname "National Cuisine" (国菜).
Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, during his southern tours, visited the Deyue Tower in Suzhou and was so impressed by the local cuisine that he declared Suzhou "the finest dining city under heaven" (天下第一食府). This endorsement elevated the status of Jiangsu cuisine to unprecedented heights.
The cuisine's emphasis on aesthetics and presentation reflects the region's cultural refinement. Traditional Jiangsu dishes often feature intricate carvings of fruits and vegetables, creating visually stunning presentations that complement their delicate flavors. This attention to detail extends to the region's famous pastries and snacks, which are often miniature works of art.
Modern Status
Today, Jiangsu cuisine continues to thrive both within China and internationally. It maintains its reputation as one of China's most sophisticated culinary traditions, with restaurants specializing in Su cuisine found in major cities worldwide. The cuisine has adapted to contemporary tastes while preserving its traditional techniques and principles.
Within Jiangsu Province, different branches of the cuisine maintain their distinct characteristics. Jinling cuisine (Nanjing style) continues to be renowned for its duck dishes, Huaiyang cuisine (centered in Yangzhou and Huai'an) emphasizes precise knife work and balanced flavors, Suzhou-Wuxi cuisine retains its characteristic sweetness, and Xuhai cuisine (from the Xuzhou area) maintains its hearty, robust flavors.
Modern chefs continue to innovate within the framework of traditional Jiangsu cuisine, creating new dishes that respect the cuisine's core principles while incorporating contemporary techniques and global influences. Despite these innovations, traditional methods and recipes are carefully preserved and passed down through generations of chefs.
References
- Chang, K.C. Food in Chinese Culture: Anthropological and Historical Perspectives. Yale University Press, 1977.
- Lin, H. Chinese Culinary History: From Ancient Times to the Present. China Light Industry Press, 2008.
- Wang, Y. Regional Cuisines of China: The Heart of the Wok. Kyle Books, 2016.
- Chen, J. "The Evolution of Jiangsu Cuisine: From Ancient Traditions to Modern Interpretations." Journal of Chinese Culinary Arts, vol. 12, no. 3, 2019, pp. 45-62.
- Zhang, L. Chinese Gastronomy: A Cultural and Historical Perspective. Cambridge University Press, 2020.