Twice-cooked pork

Synopsis

Twice-cooked pork is considered the king of Sichuan cuisine, named for its cooking method where pork belly is first boiled and then stir-fried twice in the wok. Stir-fried with garlic sprouts and Pixian broad bean paste, the pork slices curl into lantern-shaped curls, delivering a savory, slightly spicy, and intensely aromatic flavor. It is the dish that best represents the taste of home in the hearts of Sichuan people.

Overview

Twice-cooked pork is the most representative classic dish in Sichuan cuisine, enjoying the reputation of being the premier dish of Sichuan food in the region. This dish primarily uses pork belly as the main ingredient. The whole piece of pork is first boiled, then sliced thinly and returned to the wok to be stir-fried with ingredients like garlic sprouts and Pixian doubanjiang (broad bean chili paste), hence the name "twice-cooked pork." The finished dish has a bright red color, with the pork slices slightly curled. It is savory, slightly spicy, and intensely aromatic, with each slice of meat fully coated in sauce. It is rich but not greasy, offering a delightful spicy and savory experience. For Sichuan people, twice-cooked pork is not just a dish; it is a taste of nostalgia and home.

The preparation of twice-cooked pork may seem simple, but achieving an authentic version requires considerable skill. It is said that to test a Sichuan chef's ability, one only needs to see how well they make this dish. It is also known as the Sichuan dish that best tests a chef's skill, as every step affects the final texture and flavor.

Historical Origins

There are several theories about the origin of twice-cooked pork. The most widely circulated one is that it originated in the late Qing Dynasty, accidentally invented by a Hanlin Academy compiler surnamed Ling from Sichuan. It is said he particularly enjoyed boiled pork but found it too greasy when eaten directly. He then sliced the boiled meat and stir-fried it with doubanjiang and garlic sprouts, unexpectedly creating a delicious dish, thus giving birth to twice-cooked pork.

Another theory suggests that twice-cooked pork originated from Sichuan's folk sacrificial traditions. In the past, rural Sichuan would boil a large piece of pork for sacrificial ceremonies. After the ceremony, the meat would be sliced and stir-fried for the family to eat. This method of "one meat, two eats" is considered the prototype of twice-cooked pork. Regardless of its origin, twice-cooked pork had already become widely popular among the people of Sichuan by the late Qing and early Republican periods, gradually becoming the most homely and deeply cherished dish in Sichuan cuisine.

Key Preparation Steps

The core of twice-cooked pork lies in the step of stir-frying the meat. The pork slices need to be slowly stir-fried in an oil-free wok to render out the excess fat, causing the slices to naturally curl into a "lantern bowl" shape—this is one of the standards for judging whether the dish is successful. If the slices remain flat and do not curl, it indicates insufficient heat or that they were cut too thick.

Garlic sprouts (also known as garlic scapes) are the most classic vegetable pairing for twice-cooked pork. The unique pungent aroma of garlic sprouts perfectly blends with the spiciness of the doubanjiang. Some even believe that the garlic sprouts in twice-cooked pork are more delicious than the meat itself. Besides garlic sprouts, green peppers, onions, and guokui (a type of flatbread) are also common vegetable choices.

The Soul Seasoning

Pixian doubanjiang is the soul of twice-cooked pork. This broad bean chili paste, produced in Pixian, Sichuan, is made from fermented broad beans and chili peppers. It has a bright red color and a rich, savory aroma, serving as the most important foundational seasoning in Sichuan cuisine. In 2008, the traditional production technique of Pixian doubanjiang was listed as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage. Authentic twice-cooked pork must use Pixian doubanjiang; it is irreplaceable.

The addition of sweet bean sauce (tianmianjiang) is another key element. While doubanjiang provides spiciness and saltiness, sweet bean sauce adds sweetness and a thick, rich texture. The combination of these two sauces makes the flavor of twice-cooked pork more complex and full-bodied.

Cultural Status

In Sichuan, twice-cooked pork holds an irreplaceable culinary status. Some say that if only one dish could remain from Sichuan cuisine, Sichuan people would undoubtedly choose twice-cooked pork. It is the most homely dish and also the one that most tests a cook's skill. Every Sichuan family has its own way of making it, and every Sichuan person carries the taste of their mother's twice-cooked pork in their heart. This emotional connection to hometown and family elevates twice-cooked pork beyond being merely a dish, making it an important component of Sichuan culture.

References

1. Baidu Baike: https://baike.baidu.com/item/回锅肉
2. Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twice-cooked_pork
3. Pixian Doubanjiang Intangible Cultural Heritage: https://www.ihchina.cn/project_details/13801