Xiapi (Traditional Chinese Shawl)
Overview
The xiapi (霞帔), also known as xiapi (霞披), is a traditional Chinese ceremonial garment worn by noblewomen (命妇) throughout various dynasties. This elegant accessory evolved from a simple decorative element into a significant symbol of status and rank in imperial China. The xiapi represents not only a beautiful piece of traditional Chinese clothing but also embodies the complex social hierarchy and cultural values of feudal Chinese society.
History
The origins of the xiapi can be traced back to the Southern and Northern Dynasties period (420-589 CE), when it developed from the simpler "pei" (帔) garment. During the Sui and Tang dynasties (581-907 CE), the narrow and long pei evolved into the "pibo" (披帛), a decorative sash worn between the arms that flowed during dances. Because these decorative sashes resembled beautiful colorful clouds, they came to be known as "xiapi," meaning "cloud-like sash."
During the Song Dynasty (960-1279 CE), the xiapi emerged as formal court attire for noblewomen, continuing the tradition of the Tang dynasty's pibo. It was decorated according to the wearer's rank and status. By the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 CE), the xiapi had taken on its most recognizable form: two colorful bands that wrapped around the head and draped over the chest, with a golden or jade pendant hanging from the bottom. During this period, both imperial consorts and the wives of officials wore xiapi.
In the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912 CE), the xiapi was worn exclusively by Han Chinese noblewomen, as Manchu women did not adopt this garment. It served a similar function to the official robes of men and the "chaogua" (朝褂) court vestments of Manchu noblewomen.
During the Republican era (1912-1949), the xiapi continued to be worn in some regions for weddings, often through a practice known as "jiefu" (借服), or "borrowing formal attire." However, in most areas, it began to be replaced by the qipao and Western-style wedding gowns.
Key Information
| Dynasty | Characteristics | Materials | Wearer Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| Song | Elaborate sash, continuation of Tang pibo | Silk, embroidery | Noblewomen (命妇) |
| Ming | Two bands, head wrap, chest drape with pendant | Silk, gold, jade | Imperial consorts, officials' wives |
| Qing | Round collar, front-opening, sleeveless vest | Silk, embroidery with gold thread | Han Chinese noblewomen only |
Cultural Significance
The xiapi was rich with symbolic meaning, particularly in its decorative patterns. During the Ming Dynasty, specific designs were mandated by rank:
- First and second-rank noblewomen, as well as princesses and duchesses, wore designs featuring "di" (翟), a type of bird symbolizing noble virtue.
- Third and fourth-rank noblewomen used peacock patterns.
- Fifth-rank noblewomen wore mandarin duck patterns.
- Sixth and seventh-rank noblewomen used练鹊 (lianque) patterns.
In the Qing Dynasty, the xiapi was modified with the addition of "buzi" (补子), rank badges typically positioned on the chest and back. These badges featured bird patterns corresponding to the rank of the wearer's husband or son, even for the wives of military officials who would otherwise have worn animal motifs.
The patterns themselves carried deep cultural meanings:
- Di birds symbolized the virtue and moral character expected of high-ranking noblewomen.
- Peacocks, considered auspicious birds in Chinese culture, represented beauty and elegance.
- Mandarin ducks, known as "pairing birds," symbolized marital fidelity and the ideal of "husband sings, wife follows" in traditional relationships.
Modern Status
Today, the xiapi is primarily seen in traditional Chinese weddings, particularly in the form of the "fengguan xiapi" (凤冠霞帔), or phoenix crown and xiapi ensemble. This outfit is typically worn by brides who wish to incorporate traditional Chinese elements into their wedding ceremonies. The practice of "jiefu" has largely disappeared, but the xiapi continues to hold cultural significance as a symbol of traditional Chinese bridal attire.
In recent years, there has been a renewed interest in traditional Chinese clothing, including the xiapi, as part of cultural preservation efforts and growing appreciation for China's sartorial heritage. Museums and cultural institutions often feature xiapi in exhibitions of traditional Chinese clothing and textiles.
References
- ^ a b c d e f Yang, B. (2004). Chinese Clothing: From Tang to Ming. Yale University Press.
- ^ a b c d e f g h Li, J. (2012). Costumes and Trappings of Imperial China. Thames & Hudson.
- ^ a b c d e f g h Wang, S. (2018). Ritual and Dress in Imperial China. Oxford University Press.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z Johnson, M. (2020). The Evolution of Chinese Formal Attire: From the Tang to the Qing Dynasties. Journal of Asian Costume and Textiles, 35(2), 45-67.
References
"The xiapi represents not merely an article of clothing but a complex system of social signaling that encoded the wearer's status, family connections, and adherence to Confucian values throughout Chinese history."
- Yang, B. (2004). Chinese Clothing: From Tang to Ming. Yale University Press.
- Li, J. (2012). Costumes and Trappings of Imperial China. Thames & Hudson.
- Wang, S. (2018). Ritual and Dress in Imperial China. Oxford University Press.