Rougamo

肉夹馍

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Synopsis

Rougamo is the most representative traditional delicacy in Shaanxi, often referred to as the Chinese hamburger. The Baiji bun is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, while the braised meat is tender, rich, and aromatic—their combination is truly a match made in heaven. Originating from Hanrou of the Han state during the Warring States period and further developed in Chang'an during the Tang Dynasty, Rougamo was included in Shaanxi's intangible cultural heritage list in 2016. Along with Liangpi and Bingfeng, it forms the "Shaanxi Trio," a classic and most common street food combination in Xi'an.

Overview

Roujiamo is the most representative traditional delicacy of Shaanxi Province, affectionately known by food lovers as the Chinese hamburger. Roujiamo consists of two parts—Baijimo and Lazhirou. Baijimo is a baked flatbread with a crispy crust and a soft interior, which is sliced open and stuffed with minced Lazhirou. Lazhirou is made by slowly stewing pork with over twenty types of spices and Chinese medicinal herbs for several hours until it becomes tender and flavorful, resulting in meat that is soft, succulent, and richly aromatic. The tender Lazhirou is stuffed into freshly baked Baijimo, allowing the meat juices to soak into the bread. Each bite is filled with the rich flavors of meat and bread, leaving a lasting impression.

Roujiamo is extremely popular in Shaanxi. On the streets and alleys of Xi’an, you can find a Roujiamo shop almost every few steps. Whether for breakfast in the morning, a quick lunch, or a late-night snack, Roujiamo is one of the top choices for Xi’an locals. According to statistics, over 500,000 Roujiamo are consumed daily in Xi’an, demonstrating the city’s deep love for this delicacy.

Historical Origins

The history of Roujiamo can be traced back to ancient times. Research suggests that the ancestor of Lazhirou can be traced to the "Hanrou" (cold meat) of the Han state during the Warring States period. After the Qin state conquered Han, the technique of curing meat was brought to the Guanzhong region. By the Tang Dynasty, specialized Lazhirou shops had already appeared in Chang’an (modern-day Xi’an), marking the early form of Roujiamo.

The history of Baijimo is equally long. Baijimo originated from traditional wheat-based foods in the Guanzhong region of Shaanxi and was initially known as Baiji Bing. Baiji is a place name located in what is now Xianyang City, Shaanxi Province. It is said that this type of flatbread was first created by the Hui people in the Baiji area. Later, people began stuffing Lazhirou into Baijimo, giving birth to Roujiamo.

In 2016, the craftsmanship of making Roujiamo was included in the Shaanxi Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage List, making it an important representative of Shaanxi’s culinary culture.

Main Ingredients

Ingredient	Role
Pork (belly)	Main ingredient for Lazhirou, with a balance of fat and lean meat
Flour	Used to make Baijimo
Lazhi (old broth)	A secret braising broth passed down for generations, the soul of the dish
Spices	Over twenty types, including star anise, cinnamon, Sichuan pepper, cardamom, etc.
Green pepper	Optional side ingredient, adds a refreshing texture
Cilantro	Optional side ingredient, enhances aroma

Preparation Techniques

Step	Operation	Key Points
Making Lazhi	Stew pork in old broth with spices over low heat for 3–4 hours	Simmer over low heat until the meat is tender and falls apart
Kneading dough	Mix flour with water to form a dough	The dough should be firm to make the bread crispier
Making the bread	Roll the dough into flatbreads, pan-fry first, then bake	Pan-fry in an iron skillet until both sides are lightly browned, then bake in an oven until the crust is crispy
Stuffing the meat	Mince the Lazhirou and stuff it into the sliced Baijimo	Add green pepper and cilantro for extra flavor

Lazhi is the soul of Roujiamo. A good Roujiamo shop often has a Lazhi (old broth) that has been passed down for decades or even over a century. The older the broth, the more flavorful it becomes—a portion is saved each day to serve as the base for the next day, with new spices and water continuously added. Some century-old shops reportedly have Lazhi that has been passed down for more than three generations. This broth, infused with flavors accumulated over decades or even centuries, cannot be replicated by any quick method.

The making of Baijimo also requires great skill. Authentic Baijimo should have an "iron ring, tiger back, and chrysanthemum heart"—the edge of the bread should have a raised ring, the back should be slightly arched like a tiger’s back, and the center should have a chrysanthemum-shaped indentation. This shape is not only aesthetically pleasing but also ensures that the outer layer is crispy and the inner layer is soft, perfectly holding the meat juices without becoming soggy.

Shaanxi Trio

In Xi’an, Roujiamo is often paired with Liangpi and Bingfeng soda to form the classic "Shaanxi Trio." Liangpi is a cold noodle dish made from wheat starch, served with chili oil, vinegar, and garlic sauce, offering a tangy and spicy flavor. Bingfeng is a local Xi’an orange-flavored soda, first produced in 1953, and is a beloved national drink for Xi’an locals. A bowl of Liangpi, a Roujiamo, and a bottle of Bingfeng—this is the most classic street food combination for Xi’an residents.

Cultural Influence

Roujiamo has spread beyond Shaanxi and become a beloved delicacy across China. In food streets and shopping centers of major cities, you can find Shaanxi-style Roujiamo. In 2017, Roujiamo was included in CNN’s list of the world’s best street foods, earning international recognition for this Shaanxi delicacy. Roujiamo has also been introduced to some overseas Chinese restaurants, becoming another successful example of Chinese cuisine going global.