Old Beijing Zhajiang Noodles

Synopsis

Old Beijing Fried Sauce Noodles are the most representative traditional pasta in Beijing. The sauce is made by slowly frying diced pork belly with dried yellow bean paste and sweet bean paste, then tossed with hand-cut noodles and an array of seven or eight seasonal vegetable side dishes. The emphasis is on the sauce being fried in a small bowl until concentrated, the noodles being hand-cut and chewy, and the vegetable side dishes being rich and varied. The most authentic way to enjoy it, as favored by old Beijingers, is to pair it with raw garlic and cucumber.

Overview

Old Beijing Zhajiangmian (Fried Sauce Noodles) is the most representative traditional noodle dish of Beijing and the most vivid symbol of Beijing's culinary culture. The core of an authentic bowl of Zhajiangmian lies in its sauce—diced pork belly with a mix of lean and fat, cooked with dried yellow soybean paste and sweet wheat paste, slowly fried over low heat until glossy, reddish-brown, and bursting with savory aroma. The noodles are particular about being hand-cut, offering a firm, chewy texture. The vegetable toppings, or "caima," are even more elaborate, often consisting of "seven plates and eight bowls," including seasonal vegetables like shredded cucumber, bean sprouts, soybeans, diced celery, and shredded radish, which change with the seasons. To eat, one mixes the sauce, noodles, and toppings together, accompanied by a few cloves of raw garlic and a cucumber to munch on—this is the most comforting meal for a true Beijinger.

The history of Zhajiangmian can be traced back to the Liao and Jin dynasties, when northern Chinese began using yellow soybean paste for seasoning. By the Qing Dynasty, Zhajiangmian had become widely popular among the families of the Eight Banners in Beijing, known as "xiaowan ganzha" (small bowl dry-fried). The Qing-era document Jingzhao Dili Zhi (Gazetteer of the Capital Region) records: "Zhajiangmian is commonly eaten by wealthy families in the counties of the capital region and is prevalent in towns and villages, considered the most convenient among simple meals." The word "convenient" captures the greatest characteristic of Zhajiangmian—simple, affordable, and delicious. Mr. Lao She's novel Rickshaw Boy also contains descriptions of Zhajiangmian, highlighting its important place in the daily life of old Beijingers.

Three Core Elements

The Fried Sauce

The fried sauce is the soul of the entire bowl. Authentic old Beijing Zhajiangmian sauce uses diced pork belly with a mix of lean and fat, combined with dried yellow soybean paste and sweet wheat paste (in a ratio of about 1:1), and slowly fried with chopped scallions and minced ginger over low heat. During frying, constant stirring is required to prevent burning, until the sauce darkens in color, becomes glossy, and emits a rich aroma. A good fried sauce should have the oil and paste fully integrated, with the oil permeating the paste and the paste coating the diced meat, making every bite fragrant. Beijingers call this method "xiaowan ganzha," emphasizing that the sauce should be thick and not watery.

The Noodles

Hand-rolled and cut noodles are considered the best for Zhajiangmian, offering more chewiness than machine-pressed noodles. The thickness of the noodles also matters—too thin, and they clump together after mixing with the sauce; too thick, and they don't absorb the flavor well. Beijingers prefer medium-wide hand-cut noodles, which are firm and smooth to eat.

The Toppings

The toppings are the finishing touch of Zhajiangmian and the most particular aspect. Traditional Zhajiangmian toppings emphasize "seven plates and eight bowls," commonly including shredded cucumber, bean sprouts, boiled soybeans, diced celery, shredded radish, green beans, garlic cloves, etc. Different seasons offer different topping choices—fragrant toon shoots in spring, edamame and shredded cucumber in summer, celery and shredded carrot in autumn, and shredded cabbage and soybeans in winter. The richness of the toppings directly reflects the quality of the bowl and the care taken by the host.

Authentic Way to Eat

Old Beijingers have an unwritten set of rules for eating Zhajiangmian. First, place a spoonful of sauce at the bottom of the bowl, then add an appropriate amount of noodles, and finally spread the various toppings evenly on top. Next, use chopsticks to mix from the bottom up, ensuring every noodle is evenly coated with sauce and toppings. After mixing, take a bite of noodles to savor the sauce's aroma, then bite into a clove of raw garlic as an accompaniment, while holding a cucumber to munch on as a side dish.

Eating Zhajiangmian with raw garlic is an old Beijing tradition. The spiciness of the garlic pairs wonderfully with the savory saltiness of the fried sauce, making each bite more flavorful. Many old Beijingers believe that Zhajiangmian without garlic lacks soul.

Cultural Status

Zhajiangmian holds an irreplaceable place in the hearts of Beijingers. It is not just a dish but a way of life and a memory of the city. For Beijingers who grew up in the hutongs, almost everyone's childhood memories include Zhajiangmian made by their mother or grandmother. Today, old-established Zhajiangmian restaurants in Beijing, such as Haiwanju and Lao Beijing Zhajiangmian Dawang, are bustling daily with customers enjoying hearty bowls of noodles. Zhajiangmian has been selected as one of China's Top Ten Noodles, representing the most humble yet moving aspect of Beijing's culinary culture.

References

1. Baidu Baike: https://baike.baidu.com/item/老北京炸酱面
2. Wikipedia: https://zh.wikipedia.org/zh-cn/炸酱面
3. People's Weekly: http://paper.people.com.cn/rmzk/html/2020-09/02/content_2006973.htm