Phoenix Ancient Town

凤凰古城

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Synopsis

Fenghuang Ancient Town is located in Xiangxi, Hunan, with the Tuo River flowing through it. The Miao ethnic stilt houses on both banks are reflected in the water, earning it the reputation as the most beautiful small town in China. The story of Shen Congwen's "Border Town" takes place here, and the night scenery is brilliantly lit. The ancient town is open to the public free of charge and is recognized as a National Historical and Cultural City as well as a National Scenic Area.

Overview

Fenghuang Ancient Town is located in Fenghuang County, Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Hunan Province. The Tuojiang River meanders through the town, with verdant green hills on both banks and stilted houses arranged in a picturesque disorder, forming a poetic and picturesque ink-wash landscape painting. Fenghuang Ancient Town was first built in the 43rd year of the reign of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty (1704), boasting a history of over three hundred years. It was designated as a National Historical and Cultural City in 2001 and is hailed as one of China's most beautiful small towns. The famous writer Shen Congwen's novel Border Town was inspired by Fenghuang, making this small town in western Hunan the "poetry and distant land" in the hearts of countless artistic youths.

The most enchanting scenery of Fenghuang Ancient Town lies along the banks of the Tuojiang River. In the early morning, a thin mist rises slowly over the river, and the reflections of the stilted houses on both banks sway gently in the water. In the evening, the setting sun dyes the stilted houses golden. After nightfall, lights illuminate both banks, their shimmering reflections on the river surface resembling a flowing galaxy of stars. The "Jumping Rocks" (Tiaoyan) and the Rainbow Bridge (Hongqiao) on the Tuojiang River are the most popular spots for tourists. Standing on the bridge and gazing at the scenery on both sides feels like stepping into the world of western Hunan described by Shen Congwen.

Core Attractions

Attraction	Features
Tuojiang River Boat Ride	Drift downstream on a small boat, enjoying the scenery of stilted houses on both banks.
Shen Congwen's Former Residence	Birthplace and former home of the author of Border Town.
Rainbow Bridge (Hongqiao)	Ancient bridge spanning the Tuojiang River, a landmark of Fenghuang.
Stilted House Complex	Traditional Miao architecture along the Tuojiang River banks, the most distinctive landscape.
Ancient Town Museum	Learn about Fenghuang's history and culture.
Southern Great Wall	Ming Dynasty Miao Frontier Wall, also known as China's Southern Great Wall.
Qiliang Cave	Karst cave landscape.
Xiong Xiling's Former Residence	Former home of the first democratically elected Premier of the Republic of China.

Shen Congwen's Former Residence is located on Zhongying Street within the ancient town and is a typical southern-style courtyard house (Siheyuan). Shen Congwen was born here in 1902. The story of Cuicui and her grandfather in his masterpiece Border Town has touched countless readers. The residence displays Shen Congwen's life story and manuscript drafts, making it a must-visit for literature enthusiasts.

The Southern Great Wall, also known as the Miao Frontier Wall, was first built during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty. It stretches approximately 190 kilometers and served as a military defense fortification constructed by the Ming and Qing dynasties to isolate the Miao people. The Southern Great Wall is much smaller in scale than the Northern Great Wall but holds a unique place in Chinese military history. Well-preserved sections have now become tourist attractions.

Practical Information

Item	Details
Entrance Fee	Ancient Town is free to enter. A combined ticket for nine scenic spots costs about 128 RMB.
Best Season	Spring and Autumn (March-May, September-November)
Transportation	High-speed rail to Huaihua South Station or Tongren Station, then transfer by bus/car (approx. 1 hour).
Accommodation	Stilted house inns along the Tuojiang River are recommended.
Local Delicacies	Blood Tofu Duck (Xueba Ya), Sour Soup Fish (Suantang Yu), Miao-style Cured Meat (Miao Jia Larou), Shefan (a local rice dish).
Suggested Visit Duration	2 days

Miao Culture

Fenghuang is an area inhabited by the Miao people, and Miao culture is an integral part of the ancient town's cultural landscape. The Miao are one of China's oldest ethnic minorities, possessing rich and unique cultural traditions. Miao silver jewelry craftsmanship is exquisite. Miao brides wear a full set of silver ornaments at their weddings, weighing several kilograms, creating a tinkling, shimmering, and extremely splendid display. Miao embroidery and batik are also national-level intangible cultural heritages, known for their exquisite patterns and vibrant colors.

There are several Miao villages around Fenghuang that visitors can tour and experience, such as Shanjiang Miao Village and Gouliang Miao Village. Tourists can enjoy original Miao song and dance performances, taste Miao specialty foods, and experience the unique Miao customs. Traditional Miao festivals like the "April Eighth" Festival and the "Ganqiu" Festival are also excellent opportunities to experience Miao culture.

Cultural Significance

Fenghuang Ancient Town gained worldwide fame through Shen Congwen's Border Town, forging an inseparable bond between this small town and literature. With his delicate and melancholic writing, Shen Congwen transformed Fenghuang's landscapes and human sentiments into a timeless literary classic. The image of Cuicui waiting for Nuosong at the ferry crossing has become one of the most beautiful motifs in modern Chinese literature.

New Zealand writer Rewi Alley once said that China has two most beautiful small towns: one is Changting in Fujian, and the other is Fenghuang in Hunan. Fenghuang Ancient Town perfectly blends natural scenery, historical architecture, and ethnic minority culture, making it one of the representative destinations for ancient town tourism in China.