Xi'an Roujiamo
Synopsis
Xi'an Roujiamo, also known as Lazi Roujiamo, features a crispy, tender, and non-greasy filling of stewed meat inside a white bun. The bun is characterized by its golden ring, tiger-back shape, and chrysanthemum-like center, while the meat is slowly braised with a variety of spices. In 2016, it was included in the provincial-level intangible cultural heritage list of Shaanxi Province. Inheritor Lian Shouzhu is dedicated to promoting the authentic Shaanxi flavor, and it is often referred to as the Chinese hamburger.
Overview
Xi'an Roujiamo, also known as La Zhi Roujiamo, is one of the most representative traditional delicacies of Xi'an City, Shaanxi Province, and is also hailed as the Chinese hamburger. Roujiamo consists of two parts—Baijimo and Lazhirou. Baijimo is a baked flatbread, prized for its unique appearance featuring a "golden ring, tiger back, and chrysanthemum heart." It has a crispy exterior, a soft interior, and exudes a rich aroma of wheat. Lazhirou is made by slowly stewing pork with various spices and a secret braising sauce for a long time, resulting in meat that is tender, flavorful, fatty but not greasy, and lean but not dry. The hot Lazhirou is stuffed into a freshly baked Baijimo, allowing the meat juices to soak into the bread. With one bite, the crispiness intertwines with the tenderness, and the savory freshness blends with the rich depth of flavor, creating a perfect match. In 2016, the craftsmanship of Xi'an Roujiamo was included in the fifth batch of Shaanxi Province's Intangible Cultural Heritage List.
Roujiamo holds an irreplaceable position in the lives of Xi'an locals. Whether for breakfast, lunch, or a late-night snack, people in Xi'an can enjoy a Roujiamo at any time. Roujiamo stalls are found throughout the city's streets and alleys, with many time-honored shops having long queues from morning till night. Roujiamo is also a must-try delicacy for tourists visiting Xi'an, forming the "Xi'an Trio" alongside Liangpi (cold skin noodles) and Bingfeng soda.
Baijimo
The making of Baijimo may seem simple, but it actually involves great attention to detail. The dough must be kneaded until smooth and elastic, then rolled into a round cake that is thin in the center and thick around the edges. It is then slowly baked over low heat in an iron pan. A well-made Baijimo should have an "iron ring" (a thin, crispy, slightly charred edge), a "tiger back" (a slightly raised back resembling a tiger's back), and a "chrysanthemum heart" (natural cracks in the center resembling a chrysanthemum). When cut open, the interior should have distinct layers and a hollow space just right for stuffing the meat filling. Baijimo must be used immediately after baking; if left for too long, it hardens and loses its crispy-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside texture.
Lazhirou
| Element | Description |
|---|---|
| Meat Selection | Pork belly or front leg meat, with a good balance of fat and lean |
| Stewing | Stewed for several hours in Lazhi (old braising sauce) with over twenty spices |
| Spices | Cinnamon, star anise, Sichuan peppercorns, cardamom, cloves, sand ginger, etc. |
| Lazhi (Braising Sauce) | The Lazhi from time-honored shops can be passed down for decades or even over a century |
| Heat Control | Slow stewing over low heat until the meat is tender enough to fall apart with chopsticks |
The Lazhi (braising sauce) is the most crucial secret of Roujiamo. Lazhi is an old broth simmered with various spices. The Lazhi from many time-honored shops has been passed down for decades or even over a century—each day, a portion is retained after use, and new seasonings are added to continue simmering. Over time, the flavor of the Lazhi becomes increasingly rich and profound. This generational old Lazhi is the most precious asset of a Roujiamo shop.
Types of Roujiamo
Besides the classic Lazhirou Roujiamo, Xi'an offers other varieties:
| Type | Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Lazhirou Roujiamo | The most classic, featuring Baijimo with braised pork |
| La Niurou Roujiamo | Halal style, using Tuotuomo (a thicker bread) with braised beef |
| Ziran Roujiamo | Unique flavor with cumin and green peppers added |
| Roumo Jiamo | Minced meat mixed into the bread, making it more flavorful |
The La Niurou Roujiamo from the Muslim Quarter is also extremely famous. It uses Tuotuomo (thicker than Baijimo) stuffed with marinated braised beef. The beef is firm and chewy, offering a flavor distinctly different from the pork version, making it a signature dish of Xi'an's Huifang (Muslim District).
Cultural Significance
In 2023, Roujiamo was featured on the CCTV program "Intangible Cultural Heritage in China," showcasing its exquisite craftsmanship to a national audience. Provincial-level intangible cultural heritage inheritor Lian Shouzhu expressed his hope that the world would come to love this authentic taste of Shaanxi. With the internationalization of Chinese cuisine, Roujiamo has gone global and can now be found in cities like New York, London, and Tokyo, where it is affectionately called the "Chinese Burger" by foreign diners.
References
- CCTV "Intangible Cultural Heritage in China": https://tv.cctv.com/2023/07/22/VIDEwzBtXOf7cn5WxCuXDnSz230722.shtml
- Phoenix News: https://news.ifeng.com/a/20160109/47007040_0.shtml
- China Daily: https://cn.chinadaily.com.cn/a/202401/10/WS659e642ba310af3247ffb82e.html
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